The times may have changed but the people on the beach remain the same. Here’s Granny and the Brat soaking up some shade.
The times may have changed but the people on the beach remain the same. Here’s Granny and the Brat soaking up some shade.
Here at the MIW we treat our customers as friends. All our friends recognise the sanctity of the Chair. The Chair is usually as amenable as every other asshole of similar size, stage and demeanour as can be found on any beach in the Caribbean.
Unfortunately the Chair is unusually sensitive to phone conversations – other peoples’ phone conversations. Regrettably based on situation that makes us unable to remove said Chair we recommend (highly) that you
The reasons for this admittedly lie at the feet of the Chair not directly with the true owners of the enterprise. But… life happens.
Mt Irvine Bay Watersports is a frontline Tobago tourism service provider. The oil spill from the wrecked Gulfstream affects our income. In this blogpost we – as a local stakeholder, discuss the ‘people’ aspect of current struggle to disrupt the flow of oil from the wreck.
In a previous entry we posited via zombie analogy the process of battling an oil spill, essentially describing war against environmental and economic zombies that pose hazard to our well-being. Luckily, if that is the word to use now, our country has developed an oil spill contingency plan. That document has identified the various sources from which people will come who are qualified and outfitted to deal with our present event.
Image courtesy Sean McCoon
Is that happening as we enter the seventh day of the spill? We have indeed gotten the people. Incident command is populated by the author of the National Oil Spill Contingency Plan, Maritime Services Division, the Coast Guard, Environmental stewardship is well catered to, given the august presence of the Environmental Management Authority and the scientists from the Institute of Marine Affairs. There are many more people involved but hopefully you get the picture. We’ve got resources and qualified people and the zombies that want to take out Tobago’s fragile ecosystems are gonna get killed. (Again).
Except. After seven days of working a relatively non-remote site and despite almost every modern convenience that a mature oil producing country can bring to bear, we still are nowhere near resolving the issues. The barriers to resolution are plural. We have a vessel on a delicate nearshore locale and despite happy incident of balmy calm Caribbean waters no progress is being made.
The people at the site are saying the booms aren’t working. Stakeholders are saying those qualified people brought the wrong gear – as its not like geography around Cove Point is undocumented. Fer chrissakes comprehensive Environmental Impact Assessments exist. Were done for the marina proposed (by the Tobago Plantations Company) and for the feed line to the National Gas Company’s proposed gas hub. These are not trivial studies. Relevant too, given the study area in both EIA’s overlap and include the nearshore where the inundation is greatest.
What is apparent here is, those ‘correct’ people are somehow forgetting part of their training spoke to customising solutions to local affected conditions. Environment Tobago, a local NGO consulted on this scenario suggested that perhaps non-skilled, non-oilspill savvy people be brought to bear. That the shallow water might be just the place to deploy hommade booms utilising wrapping plastic strips for instance.
However while the ‘boom’ oversight is entering its early arc of clusterfook. The next thing Tobago stakeholders might want to watch out for is the use of dispersant. Oil dispersant may be approved for offshore spills but its not something watersport companines (for instance) want to see used in their lagoons and near their beaches. Long and short, in a war against zombies it can be hard at times to tell just who is the enemy. It could turn out to be the good guys.
The wreck of the so-called Gulfstream on our southwest coast is likely a zombie sent to test Tobago’s adaptive capacity in case there was ever a ‘big’ spill. Don’t get me wrong, the ongoing event is the real thing – There is black, brownish very goo-ey oil-like substance oozing out of the hull and in the nearshore area, marine interests and coastal ecosystems are suffering.
First though let’s sort this zombie business. Software engineers that is hackers of computer systems use a bombardment tool to test the ability of a network to fend off – you guessed it, hackers. In pretty much the same way, if we look for the silver lining in the Gulfstream cloud – still ominously looming over Tobago, last week’s visitation by the dead (but still hauling oil) Gulfstream, provides a perfect test of this island’s capacity to deal with hazards that come from being in an oil spill zone.
But just how exposed are we? One might say Very. Trinidad and Tobago’s that is our own oil fields, lie all around Tobago. As concerns the active, producing blocks on the current or risky side are just sixty miles away; up-current. Further south there are the burgeoning prospects in Guyana. Immediately after, still looking south, also washed by the Guyanas Current, are the active fields of Suriname.
As with any zombie conflict, you’d want to ensure your assets are protected. In Tobago’s Gulfstream case those have been identified as its coastal zone; taken to include the mangrove forest system of Petit Trou, the sea floor, seawater column and the sea surface of the near shore zone in the affected locale.
The weapons needed to ward of the zombie/Gulfstream threat are the usual; booms, skimmers, dispersants and protective gear for the people going into the zones itself. Also classed as weaponry but probably better described as logistical support (for deploying aforementioned tools of war) are the vessels, tractors, trucks and the myriad list that gets runaway hydrocarbon pulled, pushed, lifted and washed.
The biggest asset though is the same as with any war; people. Live thinking people are going to be needed to fend off the zombie that is runaway oil. I’ll come to that.
The circumstances which led to the hull ‘GulfStream’, now overturned on a very pristine Tobago reef system, is no doubt being investigated by people with wherewithal for that kinda thing. Our concern is a bit more immediate.
How much of coastal zone biodiversity is at risk? What effect will spill magnitude, yet to be determined, have on the area’s already stressed ecosystem? How will it affect the marine tourism sector? What effect on the fisheries, and by extension Tobago’s fish protein supply?
These questions come from a very personal perspective, as we at Mt Irvine Bay Watersport derives our income from people who pay to play in Tobago waters. True, an ongoing spill is a threat that may curb the recreational ambitions of even the most radical watersport enthusiast but likely our fears (as shared in this post) reflect the concerns of many others in Tobago.
It is very easy to discount the voices of the fishermen. They aren’t scientists, they aren’t environmentalists and they certainly are not politically palatable characters yet their questions are valid. What and how much of it is in that wreck? And what are the powers that be doing about it? The wider population have their cares too. The tourism accommodation sector in particular can’t be all that thrilled.
A tanker leaking ‘oil-like substance’ triggers a series of planned responses. Meaning logistical shakeups among things. On this great carnival weekend the inter-island ferry and the air-bridge are now mandated (under Disaster Management policies and prime ministerial mandate) to prioritise all goods, services and people traffic to do with managing the Gulf Stream emergency. This has, and the sum effect is not yet in, displaced people and material that normally move between the two island each carnival. So yeh, the accommodation providers are quiet casualties too.
Similarly stressed the Tobago House of Assembly is likely wondering what are the possibilities (and no future scenario is without pain) of looking good at the end of this clusterfook. Both Carnival and Sahara dust presents health issues. And resources to deal with such aren’t exactly forthcoming this rounds. So the Assembly may already be glancing skyward for relief.
Others harbor valid concerns of course but the average Tobagonian is kinda busy this weekend – there’s the masquerade you see. They are also sceptical anyone will even hear them given the cacaphony being wrought by politicians and media-mad personalities at this time. But in the meantime and despite all the brouhaha, the wreck of the Gulfstream remains yet unboarded, her secrets remain interminably locked
Its February 2024 and Tobago is entering the Carnival weekend with an oil spill on its coast and the equally unpleasant prospect of tonnes of single use plastic and styrofoam being dumped on it streets. For folks like us; revelers/appreciators of the watery domain – the double concern is, is the carnival itself a sign of poor use and stewardship of Tobago’s bounty?
If I were to concede to my superstitious alter ego I’d say our collective behaviour is pretty much what the Holy Book speaks of in the time of Babylon. Then again, this is just a watersports blog and reference to anything aside from snorkelling, kayaking and stand-up-paddling just isn’t kosher.
Its tempting to drift (note the watery allude) into a criticism of our government agencies, but these in the end are just ordinary people. Who to be fair, deserve their day on the streets to – you guessed it, toss their share of garbage how and where their drunken asses feel.
Now I’m not against the carnival. Wouldn’t want to give anyone the idea that a watersport enthusiast is skeptical of the joys of waddling, waving and wallowing in a sea of waste under stinging hot sun. But such are the breaks. Talking of breaks. The waves of Mt Irvine are going to be happening this weekend. Hope you survive the carnival.
Got to thinking about it and came to a realisation. The world of watersport is a fair reflection of our deep-rooted connection to water-bodies. I may even go so far as to say water provides a holistic arena more so than the the sum of all other avenues available to ordinary people. Let’s forget for a moment the value-add of water to true physical fitness (though by the time we’re done the omission might make sense). Let’s look a general look at the space watersports controls instead.
The aquatic environment is diverse enough occupy the attention of the most fickle or attentive mind. Shoreside bodies offer reefs, flats, waves and the vast array of life that call such locales home. Offshore there are the activities that can take place topside, such as sailing, ocean racing – whether motorised or wind-powered, or simply as place to call home, if mobility is a factor. Lakes and rivers we do not discount. These are just as valuable watersport venues, offering anglers a more sedate option than their counterparts who care to venture into the deep blue.
Water affords athletes a training ground that bespoke facilities on land have quite a hard time matching. The horse-racing community for instance exercise their charges in order to build muscle strength at no cost to joint or tenon wear – this holds just as true for your normal bi-pedal sportsperson. In the same vein, water provide ‘load’ without a premium, pretty much as some use it for resistance.
Load control is also part of the watery skills that surfers demonstrate via their nifty maneuvers. Which leads us to contemplate the value of watersport to the hardcore individualist: Some folks just don’t like having the competitive outcome of a sport depend on several people.
Health I’ve just touched on with that resistance paragraph but it is no trivial matter for those who may be ailing and cannot walk, run or even stroll. In which case just lolling in water is as good a medicine as anything that can be got from a bottle.
But watersport doesn’t need to stop at watersport. Its a major crosstraining space. Consider the benefit of being able to dive proficiently before entering training as a Navy SEAL. Consider the level of confidence commandos and even ordinary military seamen get by being able to master something in the watersport arena before joing the military. So yeh. Watersports is the bizness.
Snorkeling entails using a small tube to breathe through while your face is under the surface of the water. Add a face mask to the process and you’re down under and away. Combine both with some swim fins and Tobago’s vast range of undersea delights await.
Given snorkeling’s simplicity its easy to overlook it as a pure form of entertainment, recreation and exercise. But ask any SCUBA enthusiast what gave them the push over the edge to take up sport diving and most if not all all might mention ‘snorkeling’. That said there are some aspects to it that might be missed if one’s the type to jump in first and ask questions later.
In the end though it all comes down to two things; level of comfort in the water and the quality of the mask, fins and the snorkel. Allowing that you do swim, the choice once past that, is whether to buy or to rent gear. As we totally offer good rental snorkel gear here in Mt Irvine Bay Watersports, let’s just move right on to what you want to look for – whether buying or renting snorkel kit. Cos the considerations are the same.
The mask plays a huge part in how good your first snorkel experience turns out. You want to get one with a silicone skirt, one that fits your facial structure. Colour of skirt isn’t that critical, so just find the
shape that fits and only then decide to go with black or clear (transparent). There is a historical discussion that black silicone hides/keeps algae from forming in the skirt but that may be irrelevant
for the person who washes and secures her kit.
The snorkel tube should be approximately 16”/40cm long from mouthpiece to top (vent) and ideally feature nothing else. The simplest connection from your mouth to the vent also offers the quickest way to clear and obtain air. You’d also need a robust strap to secure the snorkel to the mask. Good snorkel keepers typically are made from the same material as the skirt of the mask.
Fins for snorkeling aren’t the same as fins for diving. While SCUBA enthusiasts can (in a pinch) employ a pair of ‘snorkel fins’ borrowed of a buddy, snorkelers may not have a good outing finning a stiff pair of
‘professional’ blades. Good snorkel fins are short, getting longer as experience and needs dictate. They also float, less so again as your subsea experience broadens.
Fins should be full foot and not fitted as tight as a shoe; reason being you’re not walking in them so the forces that come into play in the water are diff to how a shoe behaves on land. General rule of thumb
states that if your toes just peek out the front and your instep doesn’t pinch you’re good to go.
Non-swimmers can snorkel. We come now to oh-so-common scenario where you’re going snorkeling and somebody near and dear wants to go but they aren’t all that happy going in the deep. In fact they outright cannot swim. The outcome may still be positive. If you’re that person, obtain a suitable flotation device/swim aid and get some practice nearshore. You’d be surprised. Pleasantly so. Note: If you are at Mt Irvine Bay Watersport we take it as an apostolic challenge to initiate newbies to the art of snorkeling. Come. We’ll get you down.
Lately there has been a proliferation of fullface masks integrating the snorkel into the facial assembly. We do not like, do not recommend these. Cos, if it does take water the novice swimmer may never find that
happy place all snorkelers should enjoy. There are low volume masks, which may be translated as lower volume, since mask design has trended to lower profiles and minimising resistance. The truly low volume masks however do cost more and may not last as long. If you’re recreational snorkeler, just buy the ‘normal’ one on offer.
If your budget allows, do consider a wetsuit. It affords protection from cold water and the odds bits of marine life that have evolved defense strategies – like sea urchins. For those who want to take
flotation aids most anything from boogeyboards to the common pool noodle will work just fine. In another post I’ll explain why your body provides enough flotation while snorkeling.
I spotted the movement from the surface, took a breath – not too deep and dove as always, taking care my head went down synchronously opposite to the lift of my fins above the surface….. Good style isn’t always a natural thing. I tucked the speargun under my chest, forcing both hands under my body, gently maintaining contact with the handle leaving the pointy half guiding my view.
Leveling off on the bottom, no longer 25 feet away I zeroed in on a cluster of rocks. Carefully I brought the length of the gun paddling gently so as to conserve lung oxygen. As I cruised around the highest of the rocks I caught a glimpse of the most beautiful hog snapper I had ever seen in all my years of spearfishing.
She saw me also and true to form sidled away. Not in haste, not unduly worried but moving away just the same, flaunting the curious mix of grace and power that only the truly big ones have. Almost took the shot but it really wasn’t there so I kicked just a tad more urgently trying not to transmit anxiety even so. She turned, almost a full half circle and looked at me. The gap was closing but her profile was too head-on. I’d have to pull the trigger when she turned.
She didn’t turn. Instead she dropped head down into a crevice between the rocks under her. I followed, committed now, unaware of anything else. As I peered into the gap marked by a cluster of maze coral her tail became visible in the gloom. She had stopped in the hole. I was forced to make adjustment to my body across the gap but the idea was to take the shot depending on her turn. I was into the waiting game. And I got to thinking. The way hunters think to pass the time.
Artemis early in her virginal years had taken to gifting the odd lunchtime to this young soldier. He was tall, good-looking, intelligent and sensitive to a fault to her many fancies. He was also fleet of foot, demonstrating exceptional talent many times in the races her father Zeus held every cropover. When the harvest festivals reigned.
Soldierboy though was bit of a show-off. Not that Artemis minded as his appearance more than made up for any imagined shortcoming she as Goddess of the Hunt would allow anyone to lay at his feet. Zeus of course was not at all pleased. He knew from his own misadventures that unions between gods and humans never worked out to anyone’s benefit. And Artemis seemed unaverse – poised even to deliver her virginity to this this … he struggled for words, wishing the people of Athens would hurry up and create a suitable sound for what he felt.
Soldier boy had won enough races to get a spot On the regal dias, marked for exclusivity with gaily coloured tablecloths and expensive brands of booze. Zeus and his ilk knew how to live and the boy was just finding it to his liking. Such proximity naturally afforded our boy a direct line of conversation with Zeus himself. About just how good a runner he was. Not shy and seeing opportunity to prove his greatness to the God of Gods, our boy moved on to mention his skill at dodging enemy arrows. Honed as it were when he was tasked with carrying diplomatic messages between warring parties. Note – Even in those days wars were decided well away from the scene of conflict.
And in the way these things escalate Soldierboy let loose of being so good he could – probably, even outrun a god’s arrow should ever come his way. Quickened by the challenge Zeus the crafty old (word withheld because they hadn’t created that one either) campaigner asked our boy if he wanted to run a test to prove the boast. Artemis’ charms forcing the outcome they settled on a target. To balance the stakes, the shooters
were given a handicap – distance.
There was only one rule for Soldierboy. Run a gauntlet of arrows, get to the target – a goatskin, and pull it down. The reward was anything he asked for. The gods present were only allowed to shoot one arrow and that only when our runner was far enoggh away to look like a child no taller than a goat on all fours. Artemis herself of course was not all that concerned. She knew her beau was fast and in any case all the deities present were well into their cups. And so it began.
Soldierboy reached the starting point, looked back at the gods looking like children and he took to running. He didn’t dally, nor did he trust to the barrier distance had provided. He leaped across rocks, ducked when they afforded cover, zigged where he could, zagged when he felt it provided good optics for the crowd. The taste of victory though not yet tangible was taking shape.
Our gods and guests on the dias in the meantime, given the way these things work, had positioned themselves in a line. Not an easy task as seniority and commonsense dictated the order in who would shoot first. Apollo, Athena, Hermes, Persephone, Hephaestus, Dionysus and Artemis though, stood back with the confidence that only gods can have so the rush for target practice soon dwindled to just the humans. And what a sight it was. The Chief Secretary was handed a golden bow by one of his assistants. Another assistant proffered a golden arrow edelicately
balanced on both hands. With due pomp and ceremony the Chief consulted with his team of advisors about the wind and the trajectory.
The Chief Sec’s shot when it came was without fanfare. It later years the citizens would say it was a ‘buss’ but with his arrow spent the other senior civil servants stepped foward – chief administrator first, then the lesser bosses. All shot one at a time. All missed, nary an arrow even in the vicinity of where Soldierboy was passing. Zeus looked at his children and sighed. He expected no effort from Apollo, Athena, Hermes, Persephone, Hephaestus, Dionysus and he knew Artemis would not want to hurt her lover.
Zeus sighed. Muttered aloud a thought. To the effect that not even the goddess of the hunt could hit such an elusive target. Artemis looked up, intrigued. By now Soldierboy was just a small shape, closing in on the goatskin. Zigging and zagging with the impudence of the ever victorious. The goddess’s instinct took over, reacting to the technical challenge of hitting the moving mark regardless. She flicked her golden tresses over her shoulder, guaging the wind from the way the finest hairs fell. At the same time she nocked an arrow and pulled. All the way back. Waited for the smallest of a fraction of time, time that one day the citizens of Athens would name ‘second’. And Artemis let fly.
Only had the arrow left the bow did she cry out in anguish. She saw the bow drop from the corner of her eye. Saw the spent arrow in crystal clear focus as it arced to the high right of Soldierboy’s path. Saw the arrow as it dipped toward a place well in front of Soldierboy as he leaped through a small gully. Soldierboy himself was driven with the lust of victory. He was almost to the goatskin, could smell Artemis’s body – just reward for his skill and athleticism.
It was too far off for the mere mortal eye to say it was so. But the arrow hit Soldierboy directly in his chest, sped straight into his heart and the pain when it came was felt only by Artemis, such is the lot of the goddess of the hunt. Then the hogsnapper turned and I took the shot.
Mt. Irvine Bay is not Tobago’s beach. That honor belongs to Turtle Beach/Great Courland with Charlotteville’s Man O War Bay running a close second. But beaches are strange creatures so Kilgywn with its long waterfront and Petit Trou with its Lambeau ‘Beach’ all denigrate little ‘Mount Irvine’ to wanna be status. Not really.
The beach in the picture above is host to a regular crowd – should say a series of regulars really. From 5am these waters welcome the local retirees lookng for ‘a dip’. From mid-morning it sees the after breakfast class of visitor, the bulk of whom stay in the nearby villas or the omnipresent Mt Irvine Hotel.
This beach has the enviable record of offering the largest number of user-friendly beach day conditions in Tobago. Which means snorkelling, stand up paddling and kayaking enthusiasts are well served.
Mt Irvine Bay is relatively shallow and sheltered. I’ll explain. The water immediately off the beach is knee deep and features a gentle grade to facilitate the fastidious, the fearful, or folk who just want a place to have those big conversations that this bay’s cool conditions allow.
The reason Mt Irvine Bay is still the Tobago insider’s best bet for a good time probably has to do with us/your truly – that is we at Mt Irvine Bay Watersports actively preach and practise our aversion to
jetskis rentals. So what has ensued over the years is the people who like quiet beaches get a quiet beach and the people who want a beach with jetski rentals leave them/us alone. Sounds simple Is simple and
hopefully explains the view in the image up top.
There’s a bonus to this post. If you want livestream of the waterfront contact
us.